Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site

SGang Gwaay Llnagaay

SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, the most southerly Watchmen site, is on the small island of SGang Gwaay, shown on charts as Anthony Island. It is off the far southern tip of Moresby Island and west of Kunghit Island. SGang Gwaay refers to the wailing sound made when winds push through a hole in the rocks at a certain tide level. The village is also named Nang Sdins Llnagaay (Ninstints) after one of the village chiefs.

In 1957 eleven of the best-preserved poles of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay were removed and shipped to museums in the south. Despite this, the village has the best array of ancient Haida longhouse remains and poles standing in their original location. In 1981 UNESCO declared SGang Gwaay a World Heritage Site. Over two dozen poles remain, as well as the posts and pits of several longhouses. In 1995, after consultation with chiefs and elders, a number of the poles were straightened to prolong the period before they return naturally to the earth.

SGang Gwaay Llnagaay was a major village of the Kunghit Haida, the most southerly of the Haida. It held over 300 inhabitants in the late 1830s. However, in 1862 a disastrous smallpox epidemic wiped out most of its inhabitants. By the late1800s, the few remaining residents had moved northwards at the invitation of Chief Skidegate. This was despite being traditional enemies with the Skidegate Haida.

Today, visitors approach SGang Gwaay Llnagaay from a beach and anchorage at the north end of the island. A boardwalk trail winds through lush forest with caves and rock outcrops that would have provided defenses in the old days. After passing the Watchmen cabin, your first glimpse of the poles is through the trees; then suddenly you are confronted by a row of massive, weathered mortuary poles carved with bears, whales, and eagles. These poles speak of the power of great families of this village, more than 150 years ago. Walking onto the sand of the crescent beach and looking back towards the village, you may feel the spirits that remain here. At low tide, canoe runs—areas deliberately cleared of rocks—are still visible on the beach.