Gros Morne National Park of Canada

Wilderness Hiking

• Is this for you?
• Planning your trip
• Long Range Traverse
• North Rim Traverse
• Combined Traverses
• Map
• Protect the park
• On the trail- what to see
• Equipment
• Contact

The Long Range Mountains in western Newfoundland provide some of the best wilderness hiking experiences in eastern North America. These mountains also form the highland backbone of Gros Morne National Park, as they abruptly rise 800 m from the relatively flat coastal lowlands. The Long Range Mountains are a plateau of massive uplifted blocks of granitic bedrock that were carved by glaciers over 10 000 years ago. Today, hikers can marvel at several glacially carved gorges and observe the many animals that make their home on top of this alpine plateau.

There are two unmarked routes that traverse the Long Range in the park: the Long Range Traverse and the North Rim Traverse. They have been designated so that hikers can experience the wilderness of this remote highland portion of Gros Morne National Park.

Is this for you?

These map-and-compass traverses are the ultimate hiking challenges that Gros Morne National Park has to offer. For your expedition on the Long Range Mountains you will be required:

• to have previous backpacking experience and good navigational skills with a map and compass. (If you are not experienced, you must be accompanied by someone who is.) There are three major obstacles to navigating in the Long Range Mountains: low visibility caused by cloud capping the highlands, many small streams and ponds look similar to one another and can cause confusion, and the dense tangles of spruce and fir which make walking in a straight line difficult and can easily lead hikers off course.

• to attend a mandatory briefing with a backcountry warden at the Visitor Centre, on the day prior to your trip. This meeting is essential to demonstrate your ability to read a 1:50 000 topography map and use a compass. During this briefing you will also be required to watch the video Hiking in the Long Range to prepare you for your expedition.

Pre-trip orientation is essential. There are no marked trails and you must rely entirely on map and compass navigation to complete these expeditions.

Planning your trip

1. Reservations are required for the Long Range and North Rim Traverses, and they should be made well in advance of the desired departure date. Reservations can be made by e-mailing grosmorne.info@pc.gc.ca , or calling (709) 458-2417. A non-refundable booking fee will apply.
2. Wilderness hiking in the Long Range Mountains is open from July 1st to October 15th as the weather conditions tend to be more settled. A late snowmelt in the highlands, freezing temperatures in early September, a chance of snow by late September and short days necessitate closing the trail from October 16th to June 30th.
3. Maximum party size is 9 people and 3 tents per campsite for the Long Range and the North Rim Traverses. An adult must accompany any student group doing wilderness hiking in Gros Morne National Park.
4. A backcountry permit is required for hiking and camping in the Long Range Mountains . Before a backcountry permit is issued, you must discuss your plans with park staff. Briefings are arranged when you reserve your hike, and they are done the day before your trip.
   
   The fee for the Long Range and North Rim traverses includes the daily park user fee, your camping sites and the rental of a small (150g) VHF Telemetry Unit. All wilderness hikers are required to carry this transmitter to assist park wardens in reducing detection time for lost hikers or in the event that your group is significantly overdue.
5. Before embarking on either the Long Range or North Rim Traverse, you will have to obtain the 1:50 000 topographic maps for the area.
   • For the Long Range Traverse, you will require:
     Map sheet: 12-H/12-Gros Morne (1:50 000)
   • For the North Rim Traverse, you will require:
     Map sheet: 12-H/12-Gros Morne (1:50 000)
     Map sheet: 12-H/13-St. Pauls (1:50 000)
   These maps are available at:
   
   Gros Morne Cooperating Association
   Box 130, Rocky Harbour, NL
   A0K 4N0
   Telephone: 709-458-2417 or 709-458-2066
   Fax: 709-458-2162
   e-mail: grosmorne.info@pc.gc.ca

NOTE: Global Positioning Systems (GPS) can aid in the navigation of these routes but it is not a substitute for good map and compass skills. A GPS can pinpoint where you are but DOES NOT suggest the best route to travel to your destination.

The Long Range Traverse

The Long Range Traverse is an unmarked route that covers 35km, as the crow flies, and takes an average of four to five days to hike comfortably. The wilderness hiking, wildlife and scenery of this route is unparalleled in eastern Canada.

Location

Hike in to Western Brook Pond and take the 16km boat trip to the eastern end of the pond. (Be sure to make a reservation for the boat trip!) The boat tour operates from mid-June to mid-October. You will not be permitted to disembark from the boat if you do not have the appropriate backcountry permit .

Brief Description

There is a primitive campsite adjacent to the dock at the east end of Western Brook Pond. The climb begins by an old, unmarked hunting trail up Western Brook Pond gorge. The 4km hike up the gorge is extremely steep, rising 600m in that distance. Allow 4 to 5 hours to reach the top of the Long Range plateau and to enjoy the breath-taking scenery. Particular care should be taken when walking near the edge of Western Brook Pond gorge. Winds in this area can be unpredictably strong.

Atop the Long Range Mountains, you head south towards Gros Morne Mountain over varied terrain and past numerous lakes and brooks. Travel can be confusing and should not be attempted on days with poor visibility . The northerly latitude of the park, its close proximity to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and local topography mean that weather conditions can change quickly and drastically. Be aware and be prepared. Poor weather and over-exertion often lead to loss of body heat. Hypothermia in such a remote location can prove fatal.

Location of Primitive Campsites

• The first primitive campsite on top of the Long Range Mountains is on the west side of Little Island Pond, 2km south from the top of Western Brook Pond gorge. Most backpackers will make this site their first overnight stop, as the site is about 6 hours from the boat dock.

• The second primitive campsite is on the west side of Marks Pond, 2.5km south of Little Island Pond.

• The third primitive campsite is 4.5km south of Marks Pond on Hardings Pond.

• The route heads in a west to south-westerly direction for approximately 6 km at this point to the fourth campsite on the east side of a small pond north of Green Island Pond.

• From Green Island Pond, the route skirts the rim of Ten Mile Pond gorge, then descends into Ferry Gulch. The traverse ends south of the Gros Morne Mountain trail at the primitive campsite.

Following the Gros Morne Mountain trail down to the parking lot will complete your wilderness hike in the Long Range Mountains.

Ensure to return your backcountry permit and transmitter to the Visitor Centre!

Long Range Traverse Waypoints

Map: Gros Morne 12H/12, edition 3 21U

	NAD 83		NAD 27
Location	Easting	Northing	Easting	Northing
Western Brook Pond dock & campsite	452313	5507084	452250	5506864
Waterfall	454863	5506009	454800	5505789
Top of Western Brook Pond gorge	455798	5506080	455735	5505860
Little Island Pond campsite	455418	5503802	455355	5503582
Marks Pond campsite	454684	5501271	454621	5501052
The Notch	454718	5499677	454654	5499454
Hardings Pond campsite	453866	5497373	453803	5497154
The Boulder	452609	5496504	452546	5496285
Green Island Pond campsite	449040	5494690	448977	5494471
Approach to Ferry Gulch	444602	5493695	444539	5493476
Ferry Gulch campsite	444324	5493830	444261	5493611

The North Rim Traverse

The North Rim Traverse is an unmarked route that covers 27km, as the crow flies, and takes an average of 3 full days to complete. Although shorter than the Long Range Traverse, this hike is a challenge due to the thick, nearly impenetrable tuckamore that make walking and navigation difficult.

Location

Hike in to Western Brook Pond and take the 16km boat trip to the eastern end of the pond. (Be sure to make a reservation for the boat trip!) The boat tour operates from mid-June to mid-October. You will not be permitted to disembark from the boat if you do not have the appropriate backcountry permit .

Brief Description

As with the Long Range Traverse , the North Rim Traverse starts by following the same old hunting trail up the back of Western Brook Pond gorge. The 4km hike up the gorge is extremely steep, rising 600m in that distance. Allow 4 to 5 hours to reach the top of the Long Range plateau and to enjoy the breath-taking scenery.

Atop the Long Range Mountains, you head north by compass bearing, and then turn west to parallel the north rim of the Western Brook Pond. Low visibility caused by low-lying clouds is a common occurrence. Travel can be confusing and should not be attempted on days with poor visibility. The northerly latitude of the park, its close proximity to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and local topography mean that weather conditions can change quickly and drastically. Be aware and be prepared. Poor weather and over-exertion often lead to loss of body heat. Hypothermia in such a remote location can prove fatal.

Location of Primitive Campsites

• The first primitive campsite (UTM: 21U 454800 5507500) is approximately 6 hours hiking from the boat tour drop off.

• If you continue in a northwest direction for 10km to Long Pond, a triangular shaped pond, you will find the second primitive campsite (UTM: 21U 449700 5512100) located on the north side of the pond. This section of the North Rim is heavily vegetated and requires considerable patience in route finding.

• From this campsite you head west. It is worth taking a side trip to the rim of the Pond. From the edge of the cliff you look down 600m to the black water below.

• The descent starts beside a deep gully with a waterfall cascading into it. A large boulder topped with a rock cairn marks the beginning of a primitive trail, which winds down into the Snug Harbour primitive campsite (UTM: 21U 442400 5513600) at the bottom of the hill.
  Ensure to return your backcountry permit and transmitter to the Visitor Centre.

The Long Range and North Rim Traverse Combined

The combined traverse is the combination of the Long Range and North Rim Traverses.

Location:

Leave the Western Brook boat tour parking lot and hike to the primitive campsite at Snug Harbour (UTM: 21U 442400 5513600). Here we recommend you overnight and the next day commence the ascent to the Long Pond primitive campsite. Be sure to carry lots of water from Snug Harbour, as there is little drinkable water until you reach the Long Range plateau.

Leave Long Pond and travel west for eight kilometres to a small meadow beside the pond (UTM: 21U 454800 5507500). Here you will find a good source of water and low impact camping is permitted. Continue on to the Long Range Traverse .

Map

Protect the park

Protecting, Presenting and Preserving – On behalf of Canadians and the world, Parks Canada is responsible for ensuring the sustainability and integrity of the resources in its care. Appropriate respectful behaviour by hikers in the Long Range Mountains will lead to a safe and rewarding experience and contribute to a healthy functioning ecosystem. Our collective actions will ultimately ensure that future generations can appreciate and enjoy this special place.

Your Share in Protecting the Park:

Campfires

Campfires are not permitted in the backcountry. Trees on the highlands grow extremely slowly and produce little wood.

Pets

Pets are not allowed in the backcountry. This prevents possible conflicts with the wildlife that might consider your pet either a threat or a meal.

Samples and Souvenirs

To preserve all aspects of the environment for future generations and other hikers, visitors are not permitted to collect specimens of rock, vegetation, or wildlife. This includes antlers, bones, fossils, and other artefacts.

Leave No Trace! (Pack-in - Pack-out)

Parks Canada regulations require that you pack out any litter that you create. Do not bury your garbage. Special plastic garbage bags are available at the Visitor Centre in Rocky Harbour. Lighten your load and lessen the amount of garbage that you generate:

• Flatten cans to reduce their volume.

• Dispose of tins, bottles, plastic wrappers and vegetable wastes in garbage containers at park facilities.

Sanitation and Waste disposal

Please use the privies at established campsites and use them for human waste only - NOT as garbage cans. In areas where no privies exist, choose a site to deposit human waste at least 65 m (70 adult steps) away from trails, water and campsite. Dig a cat hole 15cm deep and no more than 10-15cm in diameter. When you are done, stir the soil as you cover the hole, replace tuft of vegetation and camouflage the surface. Pack out toilet paper or deposit it in an established privy when you come to one. Pack out tampons and sanitary napkins. They can be packaged in plastic with a crushed aspirin or a used tea bag to reduce odours.

Scatter dishwater at least 65m from any water source. Strain out food particles and pack out with garbage. Avoid the use of soaps or at the very least, choose those that are phosphate free. Use soaps far away from ponds and brooks to avoid contamination.

On the trail – What you may see

Plants

The lower slopes of the Long Range Mountains are covered with a spruce/fir forest, while the upper levels appear barren from a distance. It is only on top that you notice the arctic-alpine plants. Compared to more temperate species, these plants are much smaller. Juniper, larch, lichens, sedges, dwarf birch, mountain alder, mosses, blueberry, bilberry, bearberry, rhodora, mountain heather, and Labrador tea are typical plants of the alpine areas. These are interspersed with dense tangles of tuckamore, the local name for wind-stunted spruce and fir that grow along the coast and at the higher levels.

Animals

The Long Range is a calving ground for Woodland caribou . Individuals and small herds of animals are sometimes seen on snow patches in early summer, and roam the highlands throughout the year.

Black bears are relatively common and have been known to investigate campsites looking for food. Such bears lose their natural fear of people and become potentially dangerous to unsuspecting persons. Avoid trouble by keeping your campsite clean. Read the park's information on black bears.

Moose are common throughout the park. If you encounter one while wilderness hiking, stay clear of it and give the animal time to move on. Moose that feel cornered and threatened are dangerous and will charge people if provoked.

The Arctic hare is only found on the highlands and remains one of the rarest animals in the park. These “mountain rabbits” are native to Newfoundland and reach the southern limit of their range on the island.

Other mammals that you might encounter while exploring the Long Range Mountains are: Lynx, Beaver, Weasel and Red Fox .

Two of the larger birds along the route are the grey rock ptarmigan and the brown Willow ptarmigan. Canada geese are also sighted here; a few nest on the highland ponds and larger congregations are seen in the wet meadows during fall migration.

Equipment

To enjoy your wilderness backpacking experience in the Long Range Mountains you must be comfortable. Aim for quality and lightweight equipment. You are going into a remote area and you must carry everything that you will need. Weight is critical. Be sure that you can carry it day after day over very rough, steep, and often wet and boggy terrain. It is advisable to field test your gear before attempting these hikes.

The following is a partial checklist for an expedition in the Long Range Mountains.

Clothing:

• Sturdy boots (High quality hiking boots with good ankle and arch support are required. Do not break in new boots on this hike!)

• Sneakers/sandals and shorts - for crossing streams and around camp.

• Wind and rain proof clothing. Quality jacket and pants coupled with a layering system are most effective. Under-layers (wool or fleece) should be quick drying and keep you warm even when wet. ( Temperatures in the mountains can average 5 ° C less than at sea level. )

• Gaiters

• Warm hat and mittens/gloves

• Comfortable backpack

Shelter:

• Tent - waterproof and windproof
• Sleeping pad
• Sleeping bag - three season (warmth rated to 0° C to -5° C). Down bags give no warmth or protection from the cold when wet.

Meals:

• High energy, lightweight food. ( Carry two extra days' supply in case of bad weather .) Planning your menus also minimize waste.
• Cooking pots, utensils and cutlery.
• Backpacking stove and extra fuel.
• Pack-in - pack-out bags
• Water bottle
• Water purifier/filter

Miscellaneous:

• Matches - waterproof, in two separate packages.
• Maps - 1:50 000 National Topographic Series maps 12-H/12 for the Long Range and both 12-H/12 and 12-H/13 for the North Rim.
• VHF Telemetry Unit-provided by Gros Morne National Park.
• Compass - more than one per party and should be adjustable for declination.
• Comprehensive first-aid kit
• Loud whistle
• Zip-lock type plastic bags for keeping park permit and other small items dry.
• Toiletries
• Insect repellent
• Sunscreen
• 15m of rope/cord to hang food, use as clothes-line, etc…
• Small general repair kit, needle and heavy thread.
• Cellular phone ( Works in some areas in the Long Range Mountains, do not depend on this service .)
• Flashlight/candles

Contact

e-mail: grosmorne.info@pc.gc.ca

Mailing address:

Gros Morne National Park
P.O. Box 130
Rocky Harbour, NL
A0K 4N0

Telephone: (709) 458-2417
Fax: (709) 458-2059

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